The allure of San Miguel de Allende is it’s cuisine, culture, and rich roots dating back to Spanish colonial era in Mexico. Simply called San Miguel, or SMA, it pulses with color and creativity, blending historic charm with a welcoming and energizing vibe. There are surprises on every cobblestone street filled with dynamic art galleries, intimate cafes and bars, and rooftop terraces overlooking the city’s breathtaking architecture. San Miguel is an escape and immersion at the same time. It’s a city that invites you to feel its soul through every bite, sip, shop, ornate door, and hidden courtyard.
Arrival: A Warm Welcome in a Colonial Home
Our stay began with a warm welcome at Casa Abejas, an enchanting haven I rented with several friends for a long weekend escape to San Miguel’s vibrant landscape. The over 300-year-old colonial home is full of character with historic touches creating an inviting ambiance that’s instantly comforting with nooks where it feels like time stands still. It has three ornately decorated bedrooms and a fourth smaller room attached to the upstairs room. The pool is a private sanctuary in the city. But, it’s the views from the rooftop that give Casa Abejas a wow factor. Our rental host Jim met us upon arrival and shared some must-visit spots and hidden gems to help us feel more like locals during our stay. We hired the home’s wonderfully attentive staff for our stay. Leslie, Lucia, Josefina, and the others quickly made us feel like family starting with a scrumptious lunch of homemade enchiladas upon arrival. Casa Abejas is more than a place to stay; it’s an introduction to San Miguel’s timeless allure. This was my second visit to this captivating city. My first was in 2006 and I was excited to make new memories re-discovering San Miguel’s vibrant cuisine, lively culture, and rich heritage.
Afternoon of Sipping and Nibbling
As we wandered the picturesque streets of San Miguel, we stumbled upon Casa Arca, an elegant and colorful venue capturing the essence of San Miguel. I sipped an Hugo Spritz as we noshed on their fresh ceviche and homemade guacamole. It was a perfect introduction to the city’s culinary scene and the start of an over indulging few days in San Miguel.
Dining at The Restaurant
We asked several locals and expats with vacation homes in San Miguel what their favorite restaurant is in the city. The Restaurant owned by Chef Donnie Masterton, originally from El Paso and with a career spanning from New York to Los Angeles, is the resounding recommendation. Specializing in global comfort food, we happened to dine on burger night. Before dinner, we sipped cocktails in The Restaurant’s swanky bar where a DJ was spinning tunes. We loved dining in courtyard of The Restaurant’s elegant colonial setting. We ordered a smorgasbord of appetizers including the shaved Brussel sprouts and kale salad, hamachi crudo, and beef carpaccio. As our burgers arrived, so did the rain – just in time for the retractable roof to add a fun twist. We ended the evening with a shared spread of desserts to sample a sweet selection of delectable delights.
Friday Fun of Wandering, Wine Tasting, and Rooftop Dining
On Friday morning, my friend Hope and I enjoyed an early walk including a stop to take in the serenity of the Parroquia, getting a rare treat to have the breathtaking centerpiece of San Miguel de Allende to ourselves. The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the city’s iconic church with a neo-Gothic design. With it’s pink sandstone, intricate carvings, and towering spires, it feels like something straight out of a fairytale. The intricate details of the facade add intrigue and reverence, while the interior blends artistry and history. It isn’t just a landmark symbol of San Miguel, it’s a timeless place of faith, prayer, and serenity. Don’t miss the small chapel with a blue floor to the left of the Parroquia. Back at Casa Abejas, we devoured a hearty breakfast before heading out for a day of wine tasting.
San Miguel’s wine region is known for its red clay soil and unique microclimates to produce wines with bold, earthy characteristics. Our first stop was Tres Raínes Vineyard. The tasting room is housed in an ultra-modern building overlooking a pastoral setting of rolling hills filled with grapevines. During our tasting,we sampled their 2022 Riesling, a robust Pinot Noir, and a velvety Reserve Merlot aged for four years. The experience is a wonderful introduction to the unique flavors of Guanajuato wines. After our tasting, we dined at Terruño, Tres Raínes’ elegant restaurant overlooking the vineyard. The heirloom tomato and burrito salad is a stunning presentation of a peeled tomato stuffed with local burrata and topped with pistachios. It’s divine. After a leisurely lunch, we strolled in the vines feeling the buzz from sipping delightful wines.
Our next winery stop was La Santísima Trinidad. It’s more than just a winery. In addition to the tasting room, there’s also an olive and lavender farm, luxurious boutique hotel, and restaurant. La Santísima Trinidad is known for its sparkling rosé. We sat at a table on the bank of a picturesque lake sipping bubbly until it started to rain. The tranquil setting is stunning, even in incliment weather.
We had planned to make another stop on our wine adventure, but headed back to Casa Abejas since it was raining. After relaxing for a couple of hours, we headed to a lively dinner at Quince. This rooftop spot offered a blend of colorful dishes and incredible views. We were able to snag a covered table on the rooftop, which was a good thing because it poured. While noshing on incredible sushi, a phenomenal violinist wowed us and other patrons with her light up bow as she played an arrange of hit songs from the 80s and 90s. It was one of the most memorable meals of the trip.
Saturday: Pastries, Poolside, and Rooftop Views
Saturday morning began with a pastry run to Hortus, an artisan bakery on the jardín. Their freshly baked treats paired with hot coffee made for a wonderful pit stop during a quiet morning walk. Winding through the streets, we explored the San Antonio neighborhood before returning to Casa Abejas for a leisurely breakfast. Mimosas flowed into margaritas poolside as we soaked up the sunshine and relaxed for a few hours.
As the day unfolded, we sipped drinks at Cielo Rooftop, soaking in panoramic views of San Miguel’s colorful skyline. We continued our culinary exploration with a stop at Dos Santos Coffee then happy hour at Restaurante Centro on the square and was quickly surrounded by the lively sounds of Mariachi de Guadalajara performing in the square.
We ended the day with a casual yet delicious dinner back at the house complete with being serenaded by a local musician.
Sunday: Art, Spa Serenity, and Evening Delights
We started Sunday at Cumpanio, where the aroma of fresh bread and coffee filled the air. Afterward, we explored the fashion finds of Casa R, a high-end boutique filled with creations by Mexican designers. A walk through Parque Benito Juárez offered a peaceful moment amidst its lush greenery and vibrant art displays.
The highlight of the afternoon was a visit to the Sense Spa at Rosewood San Miguel, where I indulged in a deeply relaxing treatment by Deon, a skilled therapist. That evening, we enjoyed cocktails and innovative dishes at Kan Bei before savoring paella at Rain Dog while enjoying the laid-back ambiance. Final stop was Lu Única for a nightcap with an incredible view of the Parroquia.
Monday: Hidden Gems and Rooftop Magic
Monday began with a workout in Parque Benito Juárez, followed by a lunch of house-made chile rellenos at Casa Abejas. The afternoon was filled with unique finds, including a visit to Casa Dragones, the world’s smallest tequila bar. Every door you open in San Miguel is like walking into a whole new world. That was especially true as we wandered into the art gallery at 1810 Boutique Hotel and Estoril, where we enjoyed a drink at the bar.
Our last dinner in San Miguel was a special one. We headed to Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar at the Rosewood San Miguel de Allende for dinner with a breathtaking sunset. Sipping margaritas, we took in one of the best views in San Miguel. We ordered a smorgasbord of appetizers. For my entree, I went for the fabulous fresh fish tacos. Somehow we saved room for something sweet and ordered the churros for dessert. The vibrant colors of the city at dusk were the perfect backdrop for our last night.
Tuesday: Lattes Before Adios to San Miguel
Since we had an afternoon flight, it gave us a leisurely morning to savor San Miguel’s vibrant coffee culture. We stopped in at Ki’Bok Coffee, a local favorite known for its rich brews. We wandered up to the third story of the cute coffee shop where we sipped lattes and tried their phenomenal jicama salad based on our waiter’s suggestion. Walking through the streets one last time, we soaked up the charm of San Miguel, savoring every detail. We ended the trip just as we started with a wonderful meal at Casa Abejas. Before saying adios to this magical city, we devoured a brunch of Mexican sweet breads and chiliquiles. Each day of our stay in San Miguel de Allende was a blend of relaxation, exploration, and indulgence, making it a trip to remember.
