ine The allure of San Miguel de Allende is its cuisine, culture, and rich roots dating back to Spanish colonial era in Mexico. Simply called San Miguel, or SMA, it pulses with color and creativity, blending historic charm with a welcoming and energizing vibe.
There are surprises on every cobblestone street filled with dynamic art galleries, intimate cafes and bars, and rooftop terraces overlooking the city’s breathtaking architecture. San Miguel is an escape and immersion at the same time.
It’s a city that invites you to feel its soul through every bite, sip, shop, ornate door, and hidden courtyard.
Thursday: Warm Welcome to Casa Abejas
Our stay began with a warm welcome at Casa Abejas, an enchanting haven I rented with several friends for a long weekend escape to San Miguel’s vibrant landscape. The over 300-year-old colonial home is full of character with historic touches creating an inviting ambiance that’s instantly comforting with nooks where it feels like time stands still.
It has three ornately decorated bedrooms and a fourth smaller room attached to the upstairs room. The pool is a private sanctuary in the city. But, it’s the views from the rooftop that give Casa Abejas a wow factor.
Our rental host Jim met us upon arrival and shared some must-visit spots and hidden gems to help us feel more like locals during our stay. We hired the home’s wonderfully attentive staff for our stay. Leslie, Lucia, Josefina, and the others quickly made us feel like family starting with a scrumptious lunch of homemade enchiladas upon arrival.
Casa Abejas is more than a place to stay. It’s an introduction to San Miguel’s timeless allure. This was my second visit to this captivating city. My first was in 2006 and I was excited to make new memories re-discovering San Miguel’s vibrant cuisine, lively culture, and rich heritage.
Afternoon of Sipping and Nibbling
As we wandered the picturesque streets of San Miguel, we stumbled upon Casa Arca, an elegant and colorful venue capturing the essence of San Miguel.
While sipping an Hugo Spritz, we nibbled on their fresh ceviche and homemade guacamole. It was a perfect introduction to the city’s culinary scene and the start of an over indulging few days in San Miguel.
Dinner at The Restaurant
Several locals and expat friends with vacation homes in San Miguel gave us their favorite restaurants is in the city. The Restaurant owned by Chef Donnie Masterton, originally from El Paso and with a career spanning from New York to Los Angeles, is the resounding recommendation.
Specializing in global comfort food, burger night makes for an unexpected dining experience. Don’t miss sipping cocktails in The Restaurant’s swanky bar where a DJ was spinning tunes.
Dine in courtyard of The Restaurant’s elegant colonial setting. We ordered a smorgasbord of appetizers including the shaved Brussel sprouts and kale salad, hamachi crudo, and beef carpaccio. As our burgers arrived, so did the rain, just in time for the retractable roof to add a fun twist. End the evening with a spread of desserts to sample a sweet selection of delectable delights.
Friday: Wandering, Wine Tasting, and Rooftop Dining
On Friday morning, my friend Hope and I enjoyed an early walk including a stop to take in the serenity of the Parroquia, getting a rare treat to have the breathtaking centerpiece of San Miguel de Allende to ourselves.
The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the city’s iconic church with a neo-Gothic design. With it’s pink sandstone, intricate carvings, and towering spires, it feels like something straight out of a fairytale. The intricate details of the facade add intrigue and reverence, while the interior blends artistry and history.
Not just a landmark symbol of San Miguel, the Parroquia is a timeless place of faith, prayer, and serenity. Don’t miss the small chapel with a blue floor to the left of the Parroquia.
Back at Casa Abejas, we devoured a hearty breakfast before heading out for a day of wine tasting.
Wine Tasting
San Miguel’s wine region is known for its red clay soil and unique microclimates to produce wines with bold, earthy characteristics. Our first stop was Tres Raínes Vineyard. The tasting room is housed in an ultra-modern building overlooking a pastoral setting of rolling hills filled with grapevines. Sample their 2022 Riesling, a robust Pinot Noir, and a velvety Reserve Merlot aged for four years. The experience is a wonderful introduction to the unique flavors of Guanajuato wines.
After your tasting, dine at Terruño, Tres Raínes’ elegant restaurant overlooking the vineyard. The heirloom tomato and burrito salad is a stunning presentation of a peeled tomato stuffed with local burrata and topped with pistachios. After a leisurely lunch, take a stroll in the vines, feeling the buzz from sipping delightful wines.
Our next winery stop was La Santísima Trinidad. In addition to the tasting room, there’s also an olive and lavender farm, luxurious boutique hotel, and restaurant.
La Santísima Trinidad is known for its sparkling rosé. We sat at a table on the bank of a picturesque lake sipping bubbly until it started to rain. The tranquil setting is stunning, even in incliment weather.
Instead of making another planned stop, because of the rain we headed back to Casa Abejas. After relaxing for a couple of hours, we headed to a lively dinner at Quince.
Dinner at Quince
This rooftop spot offered a blend of colorful dishes and incredible views. Snag a covered table on the rooftop if you can. While noshing on incredible sushi, a phenomenal violinist wowed us and other patrons with her light up bow. As she played an arrange of hit songs from the 80s and 90s, it was one of the most memorable meals of the trip.
Saturday: Pastries, Poolside, and Rooftop Views
Saturday morning began with a pastry run to Hortus, an artisan bakery on the jardín. Their freshly baked treats paired with hot coffee made for a wonderful pit stop during a quiet morning walk.
Winding through the streets, explore the San Antonio neighborhood as we did before returning to Casa Abejas for a leisurely breakfast. Mimosas flowed into margaritas poolside as we soaked up the sunshine and relaxed for a few hours.
Afternoon Cocktails and Tacos
Sipping drinks at Cielo Rooftop is a perfect mid-afternoon stop to soak in panoramic views of San Miguel’s colorful skyline. If you want to continue your culinary exploration as we did, stop at Dos Santos Coffee for a quick shot of caffeine. Happy hour at Restaurante Centro on the square is fun as you get surrounded by the lively sounds of Mariachi de Guadalajara performing in the square.
Dinner with a Serenade
A perfect end to the day is a casual, yet delicious dinner back at the house. Make the evening complete by hiring a local musician to serenade you while you eat.
Sunday: Art, Spa, and Evening Delights
We started Sunday at Cumpanio, where the aroma of fresh bread and coffee filled the air. Shopping is a must do activity in San Miguel. Topping the list for fashion finds is Casa R, a high-end boutique filled with creations by Mexican designers. A walk through Parque Benito Juárez offered a peaceful moment amidst its lush greenery and vibrant art displays.
Serenity at Sense Spa
The highlight of the afternoon was a visit to the Sense Spa at Rosewood San Miguel, where I indulged in a deeply relaxing treatment by Deon, a skilled therapist. Adding a wellness break is a calming respite to a long weekend of indulging in food and wine.
Progressive Dinner
That evening, we enjoyed cocktails and innovative dishes at Kan Bei before savoring paella at Rain Dog while enjoying the laid-back ambiance. Lu Única is wonderful for a nightcap with an incredible view of the Parroquia.
Monday: Hidden Gems and Rooftop Magic
Monday began with a workout in Parque Benito Juárez, followed by a lunch of house-made chile rellenos at Casa Abejas. Fill an afternoon just wandering for unique finds, including a visit to Casa Dragones, the world’s smallest tequila bar.
Every door you open in San Miguel is like walking into a whole new world. That was especially true when you walk into the art gallery at 1810 Boutique Hotel and Estoril, where we enjoyed a drink at the bar.
Lovely Dinner at Luna Rooftop
Make your last dinner in San Miguel a special one. Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar at the Rosewood San Miguel de Allende is perfect for dinner with a breathtaking sunset.
Sipping margaritas, you get one of the best views in San Miguel while enjoying a smorgasbord of appetizers. For my entree, I went for the fabulous fresh fish tacos. Somehow we saved room for something sweet and ordered the churros for dessert. The vibrant colors of the city at dusk are the perfect backdrop for your last night.
Tuesday: Lattes Before Adios
Since we had an afternoon flight, it gave us a leisurely morning to savor San Miguel’s vibrant coffee culture. Stop in at Ki’Bok Coffee, a local favorite known for its rich brews. Wander up to the third story of the cute coffee shop to sip lattes. Try their phenomenal jicama salad. Our waiter suggested it and it’s delightful.
Walking through the streets one last time, you soak up the charm of San Miguel, savoring every detail. We ended the trip, just as we started, with a wonderful meal at Casa Abejas. Before saying adios to this magical city, we devoured a brunch of Mexican sweet breads and chiliquiles.
Each day of your stay in San Miguel de Allende is a blend of relaxation, exploration, and indulgence, making it a trip to remember.
