Panama City is more than just a stopover in Central America. It’s a destination worth exploring, even if you only have a day. Between the historic charm of Casco Viejo, the engineering marvel of the Panama Canal, and the nature-filled escape to Gatun Lake, you can experience a lot in a short amount of time. If you’re flying with Copa Airlines, take advantage of their layover program and experience Panama City before continuing your journey. That’s exactly what I did traveling from El Salvador to Costa Rica, turning a 2-night layover into an unforgettable adventure.
I had planned to visit Panama in March 2020, but COVID had other plans. Three years later, I finally made it—marking my 44th country and completing my travels through all seven Central American nations. With just two nights in Panama City, as a solo traveler, I immersed myself in the city’s rich history wandering through Casco Viejo, witnessing the marvel of the Panama Canal, and exploring the rainforest just outside of Panama’s capital city.
Stay at Tántalo Hotel in Casco Viejo
Tántalo Hotel, a boutique hotel in the heart of Casco Viejo, is perfect for a solo traveler. The hotel is artsy, vibrant, and perfectly situated in the historic district, which dates back to 1673 after the original Panama City, founded in 1519, was destroyed by the infamous pirate Henry Morgan.
I started my trip with dinner on the rooftop, sipping a Panamanian Pisco and enjoying a fresh salad as the full moon rose over the skyline. The mix of colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and modern skyscrapers in the distance makes for an incredible first impression from one of the best rooftops in the city.
Exploring the City and Beyond: Canal Wonders & Gamboa Rainforest
Morning Coffee at Casa Sucre
You have to enjoy Panamanian coffee during your stay. Casa Sucre Coffeehouse is very close to Tántalo Hotel. This charming spot serves up smooth lattes and buttery pastries. I love it so much I visited several times, and would patron this coffee shop again a few years later.
Panama Canal: A Must-See Marvel
I booked a private guide for a day through Tántalo Hotel. By 8:25 a.m., I was at the Panama Canal, a true engineering wonder that took 10 years and $300 million to complete. It officially opened six months ahead of schedule on August 15, 1914, when the SS Ancon made the first official transit. Today, 30-38 ships pass through daily.
If you’re planning to visit, get there early (it opens at 8 a.m.) to see ships moving fromthe Pacific to the Atlantic, or go in the late afternoon to watch them heading in the opposite direction.
Pro tip: Purchase the All-Experience Ticket for access to the locks and the IMAX film narrated by Morgan Freeman—it’s incredibly well done.
One of the most interesting facts I learned is that Panamanian pilots take over command of each vessel, navigating them through the canal’s 50-mile passage. I spent time watching the locks in action and was grateful when a kind staff member let me back through after I mistakenly thought my ticket allowed a second entry.
Gatun Lake & Gamboa Rainforest Adventure
My guide, Bustos (Bustos VIP +507 66602100 – highly recommend – booked through hotel), whisked me away to Gamboa Rainforest Reserve, where I joined a boat tour on Gatun Lake, the largest artificial lake in Panama.
Captain Johnny expertly navigated our boat Emperador through the lake and a section of the Panama Canal, following one of the same ships I had seen that morning.
Within 10 minutes, we spotted a crocodile lurking in the water and a howler monkey swinging through the trees. Captain Johnny even spotted a baby crocodile and an iguana along the way. It was surreal to be on the canal, cruising through waters that have connected the world’s oceans for over a century. I was so glad Bustos suggested the 45-minute boat tour.
On the way back into the city, Bustos took me on the scenic route making several stops for photo ops.
Exploring Casco Viejo & Plaza Bolívar
Back in Casco Viejo, I walked out of Tántalo Hotel just as the rain started. Luckily, I ducked under an umbrella at Casa Blanca, a great restaurant in Plaza Bolívar. Order the No°10 cocktail and try the ceviche appetizer. Plaza Bolívar has a fascinating history. It was originally Saint Francis Plaza, but after a fire in 1756, it was left empty until it was transformed into a square honoring Simón Bolívar in 1926.
I also strolled past some of Casco Viejo’s oldest churches:
- Iglesia San Francisco de Asís – a stunning landmark in the Old Quarter
- Oratory of San Felipe Nero – dating back to 1688, its mother-of-pearl tower houses bells from the early 1800s
To wrap up my evening, I sipped a Sexy Cold Pressed Juice at Tántalo’s bar, made with cucumber, pineapple, lemon, mint, and coconut water—a refreshing end to an adventure-packed day.
Friday: A Quiet, Historic Walk on Good Friday
Friday morning was a peaceful one in Casco Viejo, as Good Friday is a major holiday in Panama. On Good Friday, many businesses are closed, and no alcohol is served. I took advantage of the quiet streets to explore more historic sites:
Iglesia La Merced – a well-preserved church with stones brought from the ruins of Old Panama.
Cathedral Plaza – originally the city’s main square, it was remodeled in 1878 and again in the 1980s. The Municipal Palace, built in 1910, is one of the best examples of Neo-Renaissance architecture in Panama.
President’s House – I accidentally walked into a restricted area, but a friendly guard pointed me back in the right direction. Whoops!
Conjunto de Santo Domingo – one of the first convents built in Casco Viejo. Fires in the 18th century left only the low arch and stone walls, but the “Arco Chato” (Flat Arch) remained intact for centuries, serving as proof of Panama’s seismic stability—a key point during Canal negotiations.
Plaza de Francia – a former military site that once housed a prison and now serves as the National Institute of Culture.
Before heading back to Tántalo Hotel, I grabbed an iced latte at Unido Panama Coffee Roasters and sipped it in the park. My last coffee stop in the city? Casa Sucre Coffeehouse—where I indulged in a cheese croissant and another latte. It was a great send-off from Panama City.
I fell in love with Panama City during this 2-night layover. I’d get a chance to return to Panama several years later in 2025 for an adventure at Morrillo Beach Eco Resort, including a night in Panama City for my first night and last night on that trip.
